![]() Sometime you'll hit on discovering a different SLB and/or extractor combo that speeds up the extraction process (and, thus, gives a case head less time to slip), and other times nothing you try will work. Alternatively you can play around with trying to use different SLB's, and/or other extractors. You can also use a White Sound, 'H.R.E.D' EDP rod. How do you tune a Glock extractor that never should have been put in the pistol? Oh, it's an art - an art! I'll offer you this: Start by using the stiffest recoil guide rod you're able to find for your Glock. Who knows in what direction a downward slipping case might go? It also may, or may not, hit the ejection port. Once the exact center of a withdrawing case head is allowed to slide down below the extractor's centerline, that case is, then, free to fly in any direction. Consequently an extracted case is allowed to slip more freely than the former machined steel extractors would ever allow an extracting case to do. The claw on one of Glock's crappy MIM extractors lacks the precision fit and metallic adhesion of the more exact profile on the older machined steel extractors. (This information is free so if anyone doesn't like it, think about all the time and money that's been saved!) Now that I've spent hundreds of (I think wasted) dollars and several years trying to figure this problem out, I'll offer this. This problem first appeared and is rooted in the Glock factory's decision to replace their more expensive precision-built steel extractors with more poorly adhering and looser fitting MIM extractors. It ain't an inconsistent grip that causes all of the more recently built Glock pistols to throw their brass all over the frigg 'in place: left side, right side, forwards, and backwards towards your face. Funny! I've been struggling with Glock's BTF (brass-to-face) problems for more than 5 years, now.
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